One-day trip from Trieste to Sistiana to explore the Rilke Trail and Villaggio del Pescatore
A couple of weeks ago, we made a nice trip from Trieste to Villaggio del Pescatore (eng. the Village of Fisherman), located in Duino – Aurisina municipality. Villaggio del Pescatore is little-known place of Trieste Province; not so many tourists visit it. However, the place is beautiful, calm and full of interesting discoveries, including good fish restaurants. It is definitely worth a visit 🙂
We did this trip walking through the famous Rilke Trail that connects two villages – Sistiana and Duino. It is a scenic path offering amazing view on Sistiana Bay, Duino Castle and Gulf of Trieste.
- Sun-protection cream
The route doesn’t require hiking shoes. However, footwear should be comfortable, flat sandals for instance, but NOT flip flops.
Along the route there are some places to stop for the lunch. Below I will tell briefly about the restaurants I would recommend to visit and their price level. But if you prefer to take a bag lunch, there are many places where you can comfortably organize small picnic.
- Download the map of Italy. I always recommend application Mapy.cz. It contains a lot of hiking routes and has a nice design.
- Buy bus tickets. You can find them in Tabaccheria, newsstand or bar.
Trieste to Sistiana: how to get
- By bus #44 that departures from Piazza Oberdan.
- By ferry Delfino Verde that departures from Molo Bersaglieri. The schedule and prices you can check on Delfino Verde official website: This option is better, because you will enjoy splendid panorama while travelling 🙂
- Ferry operates this route only in the summer period:
- Actual price for one -way ticket is 7 Euro per person. Therefore, it can be expensive for the family to travel back and forth by ferry. As an option, I would recommend to go to Sistiana by bus and in the evening come back to Trieste by ferry. Travelling by ferry in the evening is amazing. It is not hot already and you will enjoy views in the sunset light 🙂
This time we chose to go by ferry.
The way to Sistiana passes by Barcola – famous Trieste beach, small and nice villages and Miramare castle. The view over the Castle from the sea is incredible. While the ferry is approaching to Miramare, all passengers take out their cameras and mobile phones to make the best picture 🙂
From Sistiana to Duino through the Rilke Trail
Upon arrival, we are going towards the Rilke Trail.
The Rilke Trail passes in natural reserve Falesie di Duino and is named in the honor of famous Bohemian – Austrian poet Rainer Maria Rilke. The poet spent part of his life in Trieste region and was charmed by the beauty of its nature. And indeed the views you will see walking the Trail are breathtaking.
The Trail is equipped by several view points. One of them offers good panoramic view over Sistiana Bay.
Approaching to Duino there is one more overlook platform that I like a lot due to a nice view over Duino Castle.
This time we didn’t visit Duino Castle, due to time limit. But if you are in Trieste for several days I would recommend to visit it. Built in fourteenth century, Duino Castle has nice architecture and beautiful park with more than 21 000 flowers. It will also be interesting to see the bunker, which was built during the Second World War.
- mid-March – end of October: all days, except Tuesday
- November – mid-March: only weekend and holidays
Having stopped for a minute we are checking the route 🙂
At the end of the Rilke Trail there is a small bar with cozy shady terrace. Here we make a coffee break, because it’s always nice to drink good Italian coffee with fresh bakery 🙂
Just one tip. As the bar is in Trieste region, special terminology for coffee is still valid here. You can read about it in this Guide about how to order coffee in Trieste 🙂
Villaggio del Pescatore – The Village of Fisherman
Our next destination is Villaggio del Pescatore (ing. the Village of Fisherman).
It is a small nice village with harbor, yachts and many fish restaurants.
In addition, this place is famous for one paleontology fact. Exactly here in year 1994 research advisor Tiziana Brazzatti discovered skeleton of dinosaur belonging to the genus Tethyshadros. The “dinosaur” found, which lived more than 70 million year ago, was named Antonio 🙂 It is possible to see the skeleton of dinosaur in the museum located in Villaggio del Pescatore. But bear in mind that it is opened only on Sunday.
We arrived in the Village at the lunchtime, so it was reasonable to find a proper lunch place 🙂 As I have already mentioned, there are many fish restaurants and café in the territory. I will recommend the two we know.
Restaurant “Al pescaturismo”
It is a fancy restaurant with a nice sea view and delicious food. The place is quite famous among locals, so it’s better to book table in advance. On the official webpage of the restaurant, you can find the phone number. There you can also see the menu with actual prices.
“Coop del pesce”/ Ristorante Baia degli Uscocchi
The interior of this cafe is simpler, but it has perfect quality – price ratio.
The food is good and price level is nicely surprised.
For example, Grilled dorado is about 5 Euro; Grilled squid is 10 Euro; Seafood risotto will cost 12 Euro for two person.
The price for ½ homemade wine is 4 Euro.
We found this café by accident, while making this route, and remained absolutely satisfied with our discovery 🙂
Church of San Giovanni in Tuba and the Timavo River with subterranean flow
Continuing to explore Villaggio del Pescatore we pass by vineyards and go along the shore of the Timavo River. The most interesting fact about this river: it receives a part of the water from subterranean flow of the Reka River. The water is burning cold, but it’s so pleasant to drop the feet inside to cool down in a hot summer day 🙂
Just near the Timavo River there is a Church of San Giovanni in Tuba that became our main discovery of that walk.
The Church is dated by 14th century, but it was founded in the 4th century A.D. This happened when a group of pilgrims, returning from Jerusalem, built a small square-shaped chapel. Despite the Church was significantly destroyed at the beginning of 20th century, ancient mosaic fragments (5th century A.D.) preserved. They can be observed on the floor, surrounded by ferns that grow there spontaneously.
Church of San Giovanni in Tuba is very charming and full of harmony. The harmony, which comes from simplicity of the interior, plants, drops of water on the antique floor and a sunlight entering through the windows.
From Villaggio del Pescatore to Sistiana beach
Our final point of this walk is Sistiana beach. In other words, we have to come back to Sistiana 🙂 It is possible to return there by foot, but as we were already tired, we used the bus #44. Bear in mind that the bus #44 goes also to Trieste city center, in case if you want / need to finish the walk.
You just need to return to the cafe “Coop del pesce”. The bus stop is located near the restaurant (see the map above).
We are getting out on Sistiana bus stop. It takes about 7 – 10 minutes to reach the beach from the bus stop. The way is easy, except for a small section when you have to descend holding the rope. But do not worry if you are walking with kids. There is another more flat path nearby, leading to the beach.
Sistiana beach is a big complex, including several beaches, volleyball court, bars, shower cabins and changing huts.
Usually there are many people here, which is disadvantage of the beach. On the other hand, the beach of Sistiana has comfortable entry to the sea. I think families with small kids will appreciate it.
And one more thing I like about this beach. Walking along the cliff, you will see wooden stairs lead to some small, a bit isolated beaches.
To conclude, I have to say that it was really pleasant to dip into the sea after a long walk under the sun 🙂
Coming back to Trieste
Finally, after this long and diverse walk we come back to Trieste.
As I have already mentioned, the way back by ferry is more pleasant due to light breeze and sunset time. So, if you want to save money, go from Trieste to Sistiana by bus and choose ferry for the way back. It is the best end of the walk 🙂