Almost every summer our friends come to visit us. To show them Trieste we usually go for one of our favorite walks. This walk combines visiting Trieste sights and hidden, non-touristic places of the city. Having more time this summer, I decided to organize another walk around Trieste. The route will pass through the part of the city less famous among tourists, but full of interesting discoveries 🙂
From the most significant places we will visit Giardino pubblico, San Giovanni Park and Rosarium. The last one is considered to be hidden Pearl of Trieste. Certainly, also this walking route will include some useful tips. I will advise where to drink coffee and have a lunch while walking. Also we will drop in a nice bar to have evening aperitivo 🙂
Synagogue of Trieste
We will start our walk around Trieste from Synagogue.
Opened in year 1912, the Synagogue of Trieste is one of the largest in Europe. It is very interesting building where different architecture styles combine. You will find here late Roman style and influence of Middle East in decorations. There are also beautifully stylized Jewish symbols.
The Synagogue was closed in year 1942 during existence of Fascist regime. Worth to mention that the only extermination camp in Italy was located in Trieste. It is known under the name of Risiera di San Sabba. Managed by Nazi Germany from 1943 to 1945, the camp was used for extermination for antifascists and Jews. Now it is a national museum.
The Synagogue started to function again after finishing the 2nd World War.
Coffee break in famous San Marco bar
The next point of our walk in Trieste will be Giardino Publico (Public garden). But on the way there we will make coffee break in Caffè San Marco 🙂
Located near the Synagogue , bar San Marco is famous and one of tourist places. However, it doesn’t affect the quality of coffee and food. I usually escape tourist places, but this bar is an exception.
First of all it is historical and intellectual place. In the past, it was very popular among writers. James Joyce, Italo Svevo, Umberto Saba were frequent visitors here. There was special creative spirit in the bar that you can feel even today. Old style furniture, decorations, books (bar Caffè San Marco is also a bookshop).
Shortly speaking, it is very pleasant place to have a rest drinking fresh brewed coffee. Probably you will also want to try one of theirs delicious desserts 🙂
After having good coffee, we are moving in the direction of Giardino Pubblico (eng. Public Garden).
It is a small oasis inside the city. Very green and quiet, the garden is a nice walking place in Trieste. There are a lot of trees and small pond with decorative bridge. This bridge is favorite place for kids, who like watch turtles swimming in the water 🙂
Furthermore, there is a small playground for children and many pigeons and gulls to feed 🙂
As there are no many people in the Garden, locals like jogging there.
Strolling through the garden, pay attention on a square with pavilion. In the summer small concerts take place here. From time to time Municipality of Trieste organizes here cinema under the sky. Participation is free 🙂
There is a toilet and fountain with potable water in the Garden.
Park of San Giovanni and Rosary
Continuing our nice walk around Trieste, we are going toward Parco di San Giovanni. Located far from tourist place, Park of San Giovanni is important part of Trieste history.
Exactly here there was mental hospital, “famous” for its inhuman treatment to the patients. Isolated like criminals, patients were considered as dangerous society members, deprived of rights.
In the seventies famous psychiatrist Franco Basaglia achieved the reform of the system. Due to these reforms the approaches to the treatment of mental patients were radically changed. Patients were free to leave the hospital. Being in the community was recognized as a requirement for successful treatment.
In year 1978 the hospital was closed.
It is important to mention that the law had an impact on the world psychiatry system. Subsequently, the Italian model was widely borrowed by other countries.
Walking in the Park, you will find big wooden horse – Marco Cavallo. It is the symbol of struggle against cruel and inhuman system.
Today Park of San Giovanni is a place of holding different conferences and events. In summertime musical festivals and concerts take place here. One of my favorite is Triskell – the festival of Celtic music.
Here in San Giovanni Park there is a place that I like a lot – Rosary. Opened in year 2009, Rosary contains around 5000 species of roses. This splendid collection consists of roses from different countries. Most noteworthy that some of species are almost impossible to find somewhere else.
The best time to visit Rosary is end of Spring – beginning of Summer when everything is in blossom. Riot of colors and fragrance of flowers cannot but fascinate 🙂
Not so far from Rosary there is a bar – restaurant “Il Posto delle Fragole”. In case if you are hungry and tired, it is a good place to make a stop. The menu contains variety of fish and seafood dishes. Traditional Italian dishes like pasta and parmigiana di melanzane are also presented.
Prices are budget friendly 🙂 Seafood dish will cost around 10 – 12 Euro; pasta and parmigiana – 8 Euro. Roast beef – 9 Euro.
Evening aperitivo in viale XX Settembre
Coming back to Trieste city center, we make a stop in Pan pacor bar. You can find this bar at the beginning of pedestrian street Viale XX Settembre.
Here I recommend you to make traditional Italian aperitivo. You can order Spritz bianco or Spritz Aperol – drinks preferable by italians. Pan pacor is one of Trieste bar that offers good and budget aperitivo. In addition to wine you will get antipasti, like chips and small slices of pizza.
The price will also make you glad 🙂 For two glasses of Spritz bianco served with antipasti, we paid only 5 Euro.
To my mind, it is always nice to finish the walk in a nice place, drinking cooled wine and enjoying summer evening 🙂
And the last tip 🙂 In case if you want to have dinner, there is a good and budget friendly trattoria Delfino, located 5-10 min walking distance from Pan pacor bar. Buon appetito! 🙂